A group of people sit and stand on a large water fountain in a city square, with a tall church spire and buildings in the background under a clear blue sky.

A Nantes holiday: city break to ÃŽle de Ré – baby-friendly holidays in western France

Last updated: January 2026.

As part of our recent trip to western France, we decided to squeeze in a couple of extra stops before our final stop of ÃŽle de Ré. We started with Nantes city break in the arty city before stopping in the peaceful canalside town of Coulon, nestled in the heart of the Marais Poitevin park. With R now nearly 6-months old, we were keen to find places that offered a balance of French charm, pram-friendly sights, and easy fun – and Nantes was a holiday destination that did just that.

In this post, I’ll share what we got up to in each spot, the best baby-friendly places we found, and tips for other families planning a similar route.

We drove this route, picking up our hire car in Nantes and dropping it in La Rochelle – we’d recommend searching for the best deals with Auto Europe, which lets you compare all the main rental companies easily.

A Nantes holiday with a baby: is it worth a stopover?

We only spent one full day in Nantes, but it quickly won us over with its creative energy, walkablity, and relaxed vibe – ideal for a short stopover with a baby. This compact city on the Loire river has a strong arty streak, with many quirky public installations alongside traditional architecture, it was the perfect place to explore before continuing on to the coast – and a pleasant surprise that we’d happily return to!

A person walking on a pathway through a park lined with neatly trimmed trees, leading towards a large building under a clear blue sky.

What made it especially doable with a baby was how easy Nantes is to get around. The tram system is fully step-free, so totally pram-accessible. We walked a fair bit, but it was hot and therefore nice to have the option to get back to our Airbnb quickly.

👉 Check out top-rated Nantes accommodation.

A pram-friendly loop of Nantes’ top sights

We started our day by getting the tram to the Jardin des Plantes, a beautifully designed botanical garden. It’s full of playful topiary animals and oversized sculptures, which made it feel like a storybook come to life. Plenty of flat paths and shady benches!

From there, we set off on a gentle pram-friendly walk back towards our Airbnb, ticking off several of Nantes’ highlights. Our route took us to:

  • Th striking Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, with its soaring white Gothic interior.
Side view of a grand cathedral with detailed gothic architecture, partially obscured by trees and set against a blue sky.
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, Nantes
  • The impressive Château des Ducs de Bretagne, with a very picture-perfect moat.
  • The elegant Place Royale, a lovely spot to pause (and made even cooler by the modern update to the fountain.
A group of people sitting on a decorative fountain in a public square, with a tall church spire in the background and clear blue skies.
Place Royale, Nantes
  • The stunning Passage Pommeraye, a 19th-century shopping arcade with dramatic staircases and vintage charm. It’s not the easiest with a pram, but it’s well worth a quick look.
Interior view of a grand atrium with classical sculptures lining the balconies, large glass roof providing natural light, and visitors walking below.
Passage Pommeraye, Nantes
  • The 12-metre-high Grand Éléphant and its surrounding mechanical animals were particularly cool and would be a great stop if you’re travelling with slightly older children.
  • The nearby Carrousel des Mondes Marins, a sea-themed carousel with three levels of ocean creatures to ride. It’s best suited for older toddlers and up.

These are all also along the ‘green line’ walking route that links many of Nantes’ key attractions (essentially a line on the pavement to follow), although we didn’t realise that’s what it was at the time.

A historic castle with stone walls, featuring a circular tower and pointed roofs, set against a blue sky.

Nantes also surprised us with just how good the food options were. There were many outdoor, atmospheric bistros around Rue de la Juiverie, and we saw plenty of places with space for the pram.

We stayed in a modern Airbnb near the centre and with parking, but there were many options available for a very reasonable price.

And with flights to Nantes from London Gatwick and Stansted year-round, and seasonal flights from Manchester, Edinburgh, Bournemouth and Birmingham – this lovely city is well worth considering in its own right.

Road trip to Coulon and the Marais Poitevin

Exploring Coulon with a baby: peaceful canal walks

After the buzz of Nantes, Coulon felt much slower, and was lovely and green. Surrounded by water and tucked in the heart of the Marais Poitevin (also known as the ‘Green Venice’), Coulon is a charming little town where life revolves around the canal. It turned out to be an ideal baby-friendly stopover on our way to Île de Ré as it was just the right size to explore over R’s lunchtime wake window. But should we have wanted a longer stop, I would have happily spent a night on the lovely banks of the river here.

👉 Take a look at accommodation in Coulon.

A tranquil scene of a river lined with moored boats, vibrant greenery, and rustic houses under a clear blue sky.
Coulon, France

We parked at Parking de l’Autremont, right next to a small campsite and just a short stroll from the shops and restaurants in the centre. It had plenty of parking spaces (although was busy – but it was a sunny Sunday) and felt safe.

Strolling the canal with a pram

Although we didn’t take a boat trip ourselves, watching the traditional flat-bottomed boats glide along the canal was lovely. They reminded me so much of punting around Oxford, with a more rustic, French twist. We opted for a peaceful walk along the flat towpath, pushing the pram alongside the canal.

Many of the boats are still guided by poles, and the whole atmosphere felt wonderfully unhurried. Several groups of families were out on the water, including with toddlers and older kids in life jackets, so it’s clearly a popular choice for those with little ones. We also saw people in kayaks.

A perfect town to stopover in

Coulon’s little high street runs parallel to the canal, lined with cafés, creperies, and shops selling regional food. It’s not a big town, but big enough to wander, grab a bite to eat, and stretch our legs. Most places had outdoor seating or space for a pram, and there were some very busy restaurants on the canal front that were full (so book in advance if you want to go to one of the better restaurants).

We didn’t go into the Maison du Marais Poitevin (the local museum), but it could be a good rainy-day option. And there were numerous other options in the park that looked interesting, but we only had time for one. These included Arçais, Le Mazeau, and Damvix.

If you’re doing a similar drive between Nantes and Île de Ré and want a place to break up the journey with a baby or toddler, Coulon is well worth visiting. 

A serene river scene surrounded by lush greenery and trees, with clear blue water reflecting the sunlight.

This is such a lovely part of France to explore – a Nantes holiday can be affordable with low cost EasyJet and RyanAir flights, plus opens up Western France to you. Have fun!
Allie, Jack & R x

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