If your Italian lakes shortlist starts and ends with Como and Garda, it’s time to look a little further north. Lake Lugano sits right on the Swiss-Italian border, quieter and far less visited than its famous neighbours, with mountain-backed lake scenery. We explored this area on a three-night trip to Parco San Marco on the Italian shore of Lake Lugano, with a night in Milan and lunch on Lake Como – so a pretty varied itinerary.
If you’re debating visiting Lugano as part of a broader Italian trip, our family-friendly Italy itinerary covers the country from north to south.
Lake Lugano at a glance
- Location: Swiss-Italian border, northern Italy / southern Switzerland
- Nearest airport: Milan Malpensa, c.60-90 minutes by car depending on destination
- Getting there: Car is essential as there’s limited public transport between the lakes
- Best base: Porlezza or Parco San Marco on the Italian shore
- Currency: Euros in Italy, Swiss francs in Switzerland – but everywhere takes card
- Best for: Families who want lakes, mountains and Italian culture without the crowds of Garda
Which Italian lake is best for your family and why consider Lugano?
- Lake Garda is the most family-friendly in terms of pure infrastructure. Italy’s largest lake attracts around 22 million visitors a year and is home to Gardaland (one of Italy’s best theme parks), Movieland, and several waterparks. If your children are older and theme parks are on the agenda, Garda wins outright. For younger families, the calm lake beaches, relaxed resort towns, and easy access from Verona airport make it a strong choice. I haven’t been since having kids, but have fond memories of Lake Garda.
- Lake Como is the most famous and most photographed. It works best as a base for exploring by ferry, but they are quite expensive. The middle of the lake is much quieter and more beautiful than Como city itself, which has become quite the tourist spot. We stayed in Lenno near Tremezzo on a previous trip, which is a beautiful base on the western shore.
- Lake Lugano is the quietest of the three, with the best of both Italy and Switzerland in one trip. Not the right choice if you want glamorous beach resorts, but if you want scenery, good food, and a more adventurous holiday, it’s a good bet.
Lake Como with kids: where to stay in Como
Lake Como needs no introduction: it’s one of the most famous lakes in Europe and the scenery earns the reputation. For families with young children, I’d suggest basing yourself in one of the quieter villages further up the lake than Como city, for both a more scenic and relaxed stay. Varenna and Menaggio give you the best ferry connections in both directions without the tourist density of Bellagio. Lenno (where we stayed a few years back, pre-kids) and Tremezzo on the western shore are another great option, as they are quieter still with beautiful lakefront walks and easy ferry access to the rest of the lake. You can rent some gorgeous holiday homes in both.
For the splurge, Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the western shore is one of the most beautiful hotels on the lake. It’s a 5-star Belle Époque property with three pools including a family-friendly heated outdoor pool with a lifeguard, a private boat, and connecting rooms for families. It sits right on the stretch of lake I stayed on a few years back and the setting is hard to beat.
For more everyday option, Menaggio’s Hotel Garni Corona sits right in the centre with lake views, easy ferry access in both directions, and a relaxed atmosphere. Menaggio also has Lido di Menaggio nearby, a proper lido with two pools (one for kids), a playground, and a restaurant – great for a beach day without the Bellagio prices. Similarly Hotel Olivedo in Varenna is a lower cost but traditional lakeside hotel sitting right next to the Varenna ferry stop, with direct train access from Milan too. Varenna is widely regarded as the prettiest village on the lake and one of the quietest, which makes it a good shout for families with young children.
Como city itself is only about 40 minutes from Malpensa and sits at the southern tip of the lake, but it’s very busy in peak season and on weekends these days so not somewhere I’d suggest staying. The lakeside promenade is flat, wide and very pram-friendly, and the old town has a beautiful cathedral, good gelato and nice cafes. There’s also a funicular up to Brunate from Como city which is great for older toddlers and children who enjoy a cable car moment. We were there on a Friday in May and it was heaving, but a few years ago I went in October and it was much more pleasant.
Ferry hopping is one of the best thing you can do on Lake Como with kids and beats driving hands down. Public ferries run frequently between the lake’s villages (Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio, Tremezzo) and it takes the stress of parking out of the equation.
Where to stay on Lake Garda with kids
Lake Garda is Italy’s largest lake and the one with the most family-friendly infrastructure by some distance. If your children are older and theme parks are firmly on the agenda, Garda is probably your answer. Gardaland is one of Italy’s best theme parks and sits right on the lake shore near Lazise. There’s also Movieland and Canevaworld waterpark nearby, so you can easily fill several days without leaving the area. For younger families, the calm, clear lake water is brilliant for paddling and swimming, and the resort towns are well set up with good restaurants and flat lakefront promenades.
The best bases for families are Bardolino and Peschiera del Garda on the southern shore, which have the easiest road access, good beaches, and are closest to Gardaland. Sirmione is worth a day trip for its fairy-tale castle on a peninsula, though it gets very crowded. Riva del Garda on the northern tip is more outdoorsy and quieter, good for slightly older children who are into watersports and cycling.
I haven’t been to Lake Garda since having R but friends tell me the Quellenhof Luxury Resort Lazise is the standout 5-star option for families, with dedicated children’s pools with water slides, a treehouse play area, and just 6km from Gardaland. Hotel Caesius Thermae and Spa Resort in Bardolino is a well-regarded 4-star alternative with thermal pools (dedicated kids’ hours) and family rooms for up to four – it’s a more relaxed, slightly wallet-friendlier base for exploring the southern shore.
Our pick of the Italian lakes: Lake Lugano and where to stay
Lake Lugano is split across the Swiss-Italian border, so depending on which shore you’re on, you’re in a different country. It’s less visited than Como, which means less traffic and much more of a sense that you’re somewhere authentic. The Italian side has a rustic, local feel with winding roads and small villages. Cross into Switzerland and things get noticeably tidier, the road markings are better, and there’s speedy trains running to Milan. We found it very easy to travel between the two during our recent trip to Parco San Marco on the Italian shore.
We flew to Milan from the UK on an evening flight (8:40pm departure), which felt risky with a toddler but worked out really well. R slept the whole way and we were at our Hilton near Malpensa by midnight without drama. We’d booked a night there so we could start the next day fresh with a full day ahead, rather than arriving at the resort late and frazzled. We’ve been to Milan on previous trips to the area, so didn’t feel the need to make more time for a day there – but had we had more time, we may have got a morning flight out and made more of that first time. If you’re flying into Malpensa (there’s multiple airports in Milan), this works well for the Italian lakes area. A hire car is essential though, there’s no practical way to explore the lakes and surrounding villages without one.
Where to stay on Lake Lugano with kids
For families, Parco San Marco is the standout option on the Italian shore. It has its own private lake beach, multiple pools including an indoor family spa, a kids club from age 2, babysitting for under-2s from in-house staff, and four restaurants including a kids buffet with seriously good food credentials. The staff go above and beyond in a way that’s hard to put into words. For a full picture of what the resort offers with babies and toddlers, read our Parco San Marco family review.
If you’re looking for something more low-key on the Italian shore, Residenza Lago di Lugano in Porlezza is a 3.5-star resort-style option right on the lake with a playground, beach bar, and a range of watersports and activities.
For something in Switzerland, Hotel International au Lac is a historic lakeside hotel right in the centre of Lugano city with family suites (two bedrooms, two bathrooms), a pool, a play area and lake views from the bar terrace. You can also easily rent a holiday home in the city or surrounding lakeside villages with multiple bedrooms, should you want more space or a private garden.
Villa Sassa is another 4-star hotel worth looking at, set in a peaceful residential area above the city with panoramic lake views, a spa, and a more retreat-like feel. Good for families who want the Lugano base but prefer somewhere quieter than the city centre.
Our family-friendly Lake Lugano itinerary
- Lugano city is in Switzerland, about 15-20 minutes from Parco San Marco by car, and it’s more polished than the Italian lake towns, with a beautiful, flat waterfront, excellent restaurants, and a very walkable old town. We spent a morning wandering around and really enjoyed it. Parco Civico Ciani is worth knowing about if you have young children – it’s a large lakeside park with a good playground right between the river and the lake.
- Swissminiatur is an open-air miniature park in the village of Melide on the Swiss shore of Lake Lugano, about 30 minutes from Parco San Marco. With over 130 scale models of Switzerland’s most famous buildings, landmarks and transport systems, all at 1:25 scale, it was really quite brilliant. R was fascinated by the tiny trains running along the tracks, the miniature boats on the lake, and the cable cars moving between models. The park is flat, well maintained and very easy to push a buggy around. Under 6s are free and the park is open mid-March to early November (plus there’s a cafe on site).
- If you want a more rural walk spot, Lago di Piano is a lovely option. It’s a small protected nature reserve sitting between Lake Como and Lake Lugano, about 10 minutes from Parco San Marco by car. The lake is surrounded by reeds, wetland meadows and woodland, and there’s a flat circular walk of around 7km. We didn’t do it all but did walk for about an hour.
Things to do at Parco San Marco
If you’re based at Parco San Marco there’s plenty to keep you busy without leaving the grounds. As well as the pools and family spa, the resort has tennis courts, a climbing wall, and lake-based activities you can book through reception. The private lake beach is lovely too.
If you fancy taking a walk, keep going past the resort’s resident donkeys on the upper level and you’ll eventually reach the small village of Cima. There’s not much there, but there is a cafe and bar right on the lake where you can stop for a coffee or drink before walking back down. The path up isn’t pram-friendly so a carrier is needed, but it’s a lovely little walk for families with a toddler who’s happy on your back.
The Italian lakes work really well as part of a longer Italy itinerary. If you’re thinking about combining this area with Rome, Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast or Sicily, our family-friendly Italy itinerary has everything you need to plan the wider trip.
Allie, Jack & R x
P.S. this trip was also when we discovered the joy of a ride-on suitcase. We took our Carry On Kiddie for the first time and R was obsessed riding it through the airport. If you’re travelling with a toddler and haven’t tried one yet, our guide to the best kids luggage covers all the options.
Frequently asked questions
Yes. It’s quieter and less crowded than Lake Como, with a good mix of family-friendly attractions including Swissminiatur, the Lago di Piano nature reserve, and Lugano city’s flat waterfront. The Italian shore has several family resorts including Parco San Marco, particularly well set up for babies and toddlers.
Parco San Marco on the Italian shore of Lake Lugano is roughly 90 minutes from Milan Malpensa by car. Lake Como is about 40 minutes from the airport, making it an easy and natural stopover on the way.
If you’re staying on the Italian side, euros are fine. But if you’re crossing into Switzerland for the day, you’ll need Swiss francs or a card that doesn’t charge foreign transaction fees. Most places accept cards but it’s worth having some francs as a backup.
Yes, we’d really recommend it. The scale models are fascinating for little ones, particularly the working miniature trains, boats and cable cars. The park is flat, buggy-friendly and takes about two hours at a relaxed pace. Under-6s get in free.
Lake Garda has the most family infrastructure including theme parks, waterparks and beaches, and is best for older children or those wanting organised entertainment. Lake Como is the most beautiful and best enjoyed by ferry hopping between villages. Lake Lugano is the quietest and most authentic, best for families who want to explore rather than resort-sit. All three are reachable from Milan Malpensa.
It depends what you’re after. Lake Como is more famous and has the classic Italian lakes scenery, but it gets very crowded. Lake Lugano is quieter, less expensive on the Italian side, and has a more local feel. For families wanting to actually explore and relax rather than fight for a parking spot, Lugano is the better bet.
Our stay at Parco San Marco was gifted in exchange for a review. This post contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
