Croatia is one of those destinations that everyone’s talking about right now. We’ve been twice, first for a chilled week based in Dubrovnik’s Lapad neighbourhood, and then again for a 12-day road trip along the Dalmatian coast and into Montenegro. This stretch of coastline is a brilliant family destination: the sea is calm and clear, the fresh seafood is incredible, and there’s a mix of history, islands, and outdoor activities that works for all ages.
You don’t have to do it as a road trip, of course. Plenty of families stay put for a week on Brač or Hvar, or on the outskirts of Split or Dubrovnik. But if you want to cover some ground and see a bit of everything, the route from Split down to Dubrovnik with a swing into Montenegro is one of the best drives in Europe.
Here’s everything you need to know to plan it.
In this guide:
How to get there Split Brač island Driving south via Bosnia Kotor, Montenegro Lake Skadar Dubrovnik 12-day itinerary Croatia with kids
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How to get to Croatia
Most UK visitors fly into Split or Dubrovnik for a road trip like this, picking up a hire car at the airport. easyJet, Jet2 and British Airways all fly direct from various UK airports. We flew into one and out the other to give us more time exploring, but your exact route and desire to stay on one of the islands off Split will be a key factor in which airport you choose.
We hired a car for the full trip, which is a must. Public transport between the islands and into Montenegro isn’t impossible, but it makes the whole thing significantly more complicated and you’ll need more time or a shorter route. We’d recommend searching for the best car hire rates with Auto Europe, which compares all the major rental companies.
Getting around Croatia by car
A few practical things to know before you set off:
- Croatian roads are excellent and driving is straightforward. The A1 motorway runs from Zagreb to Split; south of Split you’re mostly on the coastal D8 (the Magistrala), which is slower but beautiful.
- The drive from Split to Dubrovnik along the coast takes around 3.5 hours without stops, so plan for a full day.
- You’ll cross briefly through Bosnia and Herzegovina at Neum, which splits Croatia’s coastline in two. This is a genuine border crossing so have passports ready. Since Croatia joined the Schengen Area the process is smoother than it used to be.
- For trips into Montenegro, the coastal Debeli Brijeg/Karasovići border near Herceg Novi is popular and straightforward but can have queues in peak season. The Orah crossing further inland is quieter if you’re routing via Bosnia as we did.
- Check your car hire agreement for cross-border travel into Bosnia and Montenegro (most companies allow it but you may need a green card or extra paperwork).
Things to do in Split, Croatia
Split is built inside a Roman emperor’s retirement palace: Diocletian’s Palace was constructed around 305 AD and people have been living within its walls ever since. Wander in through any of the old gates and you’ll find apartments, restaurants and bars nestled into 1,700-year-old stone, which is as surreal as it sounds. Popular things to do in Split include:
- Walk through Diocletian’s Palace and find the Peristyle, the central square that was once the emperor’s ceremonial courtyard
- Climb the Cathedral of Saint Domnius bell tower for views over the old town rooftops
- Stroll the Riva, Split’s long seafront promenade, and watch the world go by over a coffee or a cold drink
- Visit the Golden Gate (the grandest of the four palace entrances) and the statue of Gregory of Nin just outside, whose toe you’re supposed to rub for good luck
- Head to Podstrana or Bačvice beach for a swim; Bačvice is famous locally for picigin, a traditional ball game played in the shallows
Day trips from Split
If you’d rather base yourself in Split and do day trips rather than island-hopping, both Brač and Hvar are very doable. The ferry to Supetar on Brač takes under an hour, and there are catamarans to Hvar town. Trogir, a beautifully preserved medieval town on a tiny island connected by bridge, is just 27km up the coast – my mum stays there whenever she visits the area and loves it as a slightly quieter alternative base to Split.
We found 2-3 nights plenty for Split unless you’re using it as a beach base for longer. The history and architecture is the main draw; once you’ve explored the old town and done a beach day, you’ve seen the best of it.
Where to stay in Split
We stayed at the Endless Summer Apartments in Podstrana, just south of Split centre (a short bus or drive), lovely pool, great location, and easy access to Podstrana beach where there are some really nice waterfront restaurants for an evening meal. For a hotel option, the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Split is a popular choice for families, with a beachfront location, pools, and spa.
Brač island: what to do and where to stay
Brač is the largest of the central Dalmatian islands and has a real variety to it: buzzy Bol on the south coast, quieter Supetar in the north, and a handful of inland villages that most tourists never reach. We chose it as it was less of a party island than Hvar can become in peak season.
The took our rental car onto the ferry from Split to Supetar, and from there it’s about a 40-minute drive across the island to Bol.
What we did on Brač:
- Zlatni Rat beach: Bol’s famous spit of white shingle that juts out into the sea and shifts shape with the currents. It’s iconic for a reason, though it gets very busy in high season. Hire comfy beds at the Ured beach bar and spend a morning watching the catamarans come and go in the port
- Lovrekinica Bay: a quieter beach that was away from the crowds but with brilliant clear water and a cute restaurant
- Black Monastery: a pretty spectacular walk to an old monastery that can only be reached by a 45 minute walk (take enough water as it’s steep and remote).
- Stina Winery: right on the waterfront in Bol, producing excellent local wines. Very much worth a visit even if you just stop for a glass with the view
- Milna: a tiny, beautiful harbour village on the west coast of the island. Drive over for lunch and you’ll wonder why more people don’t make the effort
- Supetar Riva: the main promenade in Supetar is lovely for a wander and a coffee before or after the ferry
- Dinner in Bol port: we enjoyed Topolino, but the standout meal was in the port at Restaurant Pumparela where steaks and tuna were cooked on hot stones directly at the table.
What about Hvar?
We chose Brač over Hvar on our road trip, but Hvar is worth including as an option, particularly if you want somewhere with more of a social scene. Hvar town is one of the most glamorous spots on the Adriatic, with beautiful architecture, excellent restaurants, and a lively harbour. It’s also more expensive and considerably busier than Brač, and for us the latter is better with a young family.
Where to stay on Brač
Bol is our recommended base on the island and if you’re looking for a hotel, Bluesun Holiday Village Bonaca is the best-known family resort in Bol. There’s plenty of apartments to rent too though if you prefer a bit more space and less organised fun.
Driving south: the Kravica waterfalls detour into Bosnia
The drive from Split (or from Brač, via the Supetar ferry) south towards Dubrovnik and Montenegro is one of many spectacular drives on this itinerary. The Magistrala hugs the coast with sea views almost the entire way.
We took a deliberate detour at Metković to cross into Bosnia and Herzegovina, and loved seeing and swimming in the Kravica Waterfalls. There are restaurants and cafés around the site serving grilled meat and cold drinks – make sure you have Euros or Bosnian Convertible Mark (BAM).
From Kravica we continued east on the R427 through the Bosnian countryside before crossing into Montenegro via the M-8.
Kotor, Montenegro: things to do and day trips
Kotor was one of our favourite stops on the whole trip. The bay is a dramatic fjord-like inlet ringed by mountains that drop almost vertically into the water, and the old town is one of the best-preserved medieval walled cities in Europe. We stayed a few nights and used it as a base for the surrounding area.
Kotor old town
Walk in and you hit a maze of Venetian-influenced stone streets, squares and churches. The Cathedral of Saint Tryphon is the standout building, but the whole old town is worth slow exploration. It’s compact enough to cover comfortably on foot in half a day or less.
The fortress walls above the town are a longer undertaking at around 1,350 steps up to San Giovanni Fortress, but the views over the bay from the top are sensational. Go early to beat the heat and the crowds, and make sure you take a carrier for little ones (if you can handle the sweaty back!).
Day trips from Kotor
- Perast: a 20-minute drive north along the bay brings you to one of the most elegant small towns in Montenegro. It was once a wealthy maritime republic and the waterfront palaces still have an air of faded grandeur. Stop for lunch and take a short boat taxi out to Our Lady of the Rocks (you can also do this from Kotor and get more of a boat trip out of it), a tiny island church built on a man-made reef. If you’d prefer somewhere quieter than Kotor as a base, the Heritage Grand Perast hotel is one of the finest in the region and some good friends of ours loved their stay there.
- Lovćen National Park: a day trip into the mountains above Kotor, to the mausoleum of Montenegrin poet-prince Petar II Petrović-Njegoš, perched at 1,657 metres with views across Montenegro and into Croatia on a clear day. The road up through the Kotor Serpentine (25 hairpin bends carved into the mountain) is unforgettable and be sure to stop at the viewpoints on the way.
- Budva: Montenegro’s main beach resort, about 25km south of Kotor. More of a package-holiday feel than the rest of the itinerary, but it’s an easy day out and the kids will love the beaches.
Where to stay in Kotor
For a special stay, the Hyatt Regency Kotor Bay Resort sits right on the bay a short drive from the old town, with stunning views, pools, and a private beach. For something right inside the old town walls, the Historic Boutique Hotel Cattaro is beautifully positioned on the main square.
Lake Skadar National Park: boat trips and where to stay
The route from Kotor to Lake Skadar takes you back over the mountains. Stop at the Kotor Serpentine viewpoint and the Stome Viewpoint on the way out, and look out for the Pavlova Strana viewpoint as you descend towards the lake – it looks out over the water and is genuinely beautiful.
Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans, shared between Montenegro and Albania, and it’s a completely different landscape to the coast with wetlands, waterlilies and an eerie, still quality. It’s a UNESCO protected national park and a haven for birdlife.
Virpazar is the main village on the lake and the best base if you want something with infrastructure. It has a handful of restaurants, boat tour operators, and a railway station. We stayed somewhere more rural recommended by a friend, but Virpazar suits most people better as a base.
The highlight is naturally the boat trip on the lake, easily arranged from Virpazar. The boat takes you through the reeds and waterlily beds, past abandoned monasteries on tiny islands, and out onto the open water.
Things to do in Dubrovnik
We’ve been to Dubrovnik twice, once at the end of this road trip and once for a full week, and both times we stayed in the Lapad neighbourhood, which we’d strongly recommend over the old town for families. Lapad Bay beach is nicknamed ‘Sunset Beach’, and is sandy and calm, perfect for young children, with restaurants, and is connected to the old town by a regular bus that takes about 15 minutes. You avoid the cruise ship crowds and the steep prices of old town accommodation while still being close enough to visit whenever you want.
While near this glorious city you can:
- Walk the city walls: the 2km circuit around the top of Dubrovnik’s medieval fortifications is the single best thing to do in the city. You get an extraordinary aerial view over the terracotta rooftops on one side and the Adriatic on the other, with Lokrum Island sitting just offshore. Allow an hour or so and go early morning to beat the heat and the crowds. Note that the walls aren’t pram-friendly
- Explore Stradun: the long limestone-paved main street of the old town, lined with baroque buildings. Perfect for a long slow wander with a gelato
- Visit Lokrum Island: a short ferry from the old port brings you to this uninhabited wooded island with rocky swimming spots, a botanical garden, resident peacocks and the ruins of a medieval monastery. We visited during our week-long stay and loved it. A great half-day out and a welcome escape from the old town crowds
- Sea kayaking: we did a kayak tour during our week-long stay and paddling out from the base of the city walls and seeing Dubrovnik from the sea offers a different perspective. Various operators run morning and sunset tours, and obviously this is better with older kids
- Mount Srđ cable car: the cable car climbs to 412 metres above the city in four minutes, with panoramic views over the old town, the islands and across into Bosnia on a clear day. At the top there’s Fort Imperial, a restaurant, and serious views. Book in advance in peak season
- Elaphiti Islands: a boat trip to the Elaphiti archipelago north of Dubrovnik makes for a brilliant day out, with swimming stops and a much more relaxed pace than the city itself. We wouldn’t do this with young kids as it’s a long time on a boat, but it’s good for older children and teens
- Game of Thrones locations: Dubrovnik was King’s Landing in the series, and various spots around the old town are immediately recognisable to fans. Pile Gate, Fort Lovrijenac, the Jesuit Staircase – there are dedicated tours if that’s your thing
Dubrovnik is very busy in July and August, particularly when cruise ships are in port. The old town can feel overwhelming mid-morning, and more so with a pram or little walkers. Go early, go late, or plan your visit for the shoulder months if you can – May, June and September are all significantly more pleasant.
Where to stay in Dubrovnik with kids
We’d recommend basing yourself in Lapad rather than the old town to get more space, lower prices, and a proper beach on your doorstep. President Hotel, Valamar Collection is a superb family option with sea views, pools, and a spa. Hotel Lapad is a more affordable option right on the harbour.
Sample 12-day Croatia road trip itinerary
This is roughly how we’d structure a 12-day Croatia and Montenegro road trip, flying into Split and out of Dubrovnik:
- Day 1: Fly into Split, pick up hire car, check in to Podstrana or central Split
- Day 2: Explore Diocletian’s Palace and the old town, evening on the Riva
- Day 3: Day trip to Trogir or ferry over to Brač, drive to Bol
- Day 4/5: Zlatni Rat and Lovrekinica Bay beaches, Stina Winery, drive to Milna for lunch
- Day 6: Supetar, ferry back to Split, drive south along the Magistrala, cross into Bosnia, swim at Kravica Waterfalls, continue via R427 into Montenegro and arrive in Kotor
- Day 7/8: Explore Kotor old town and Sea Gate, get a boat trip to Our Lady of the Rocks, visit Perast or drive the Kotor Serpentine to Lovćen
- Day 9: Drive to Lake Skadar, afternoon boat trip from Virpazar
- Day 10: Drive to Dubrovnik via the coast, check in to Lapad
- Day 11/12/13: Walk the city walls, Stradun, old port and/or ferry to Lokrum Island. If time allows, go sea kayaking or to Elaphiti Islands via a boat trip. Spend some time in the sea at Lapad Beach
Croatia with kids: is it a good family holiday?
Croatia with kids is brilliant. Whether you’re doing a road trip like ours or staying put on an island, it ticks almost every box for a family holiday: warm, calm sea, tasty food, short enough flights, and a pace that suits young children well. Montenegro is equally family-friendly once you’re across the border, and the combination of beaches, history, and outdoor activity means older kids and toddlers alike have plenty to keep them occupied.
A few practical notes for families doing Croatia for kids:
- Beaches can be pebble or rock rather than sand, so beach shoes are a good idea and a float mat makes life easier for little ones
- The old towns of Split, Kotor and Dubrovnik are all cobbled and hilly, manageable with a carrier but not pram-friendly for extended periods, so bring both
- July and August are very hot and very busy. May, June or September are considerably more pleasant for a Croatia family holiday
- Shade on beaches can be limited, so hire sun loungers with umbrellas and plan beach time for mornings and late afternoon
- Restaurants generally open late by UK standards. If you have early-eating toddlers, making lunch the main meal of the day works well here
Our verdict
Getting there: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Easy direct flights from most UK airports to Split or Dubrovnik
Pramability: ⭐⭐ The old towns are beautiful but cobbled and hilly, so a carrier is your friend
Adult fun factor: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ One of the most scenic road trips in Europe, and the beaches are excellent
Cost: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Mid-range for Europe, with beaches and outdoor activities affordable and restaurants good value outside of Dubrovnik’s old town
Allie, Jack & R x
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