Isle of Skye with kids: an honest guide & rainy day ideas

We’ve just come back from four nights on the Isle of Skye with our 15-month-old and I’m still processing the dramatic skies, seal spotting from our living room window, hailstones one minute and golden light the next. It was unlike anywhere we’ve taken R before, and at first we were wondering if we’d made a mistake coming the week before Easter given how little was open.

But after taking in the scenery from our Airbnb on the edge of Loch Portree, it was clear that this multigenerational trip (my parents were with us) would offer something for everyone, including the toddler with opinions on the rain and a grandmother who just wants a decent coffee and a view. For a full overview of the island before you go, VisitScotland’s Isle of Skye page is a great starting point.

Here’s what we got up to, what we’d do differently, and whether we think Skye is worth it with kids.

Getting to the Isle of Skye

We flew direct from Heathrow to Inverness, which was very easy. A morning flight meant we arrived with energy to enjoy the drive down, and I’d highly recommend stopping at Farm Ness to meet the famous Highland Cows or the Loch Ness Experience (read more in my Loch Ness guide or my full Scottish highlands road trip itinerary) to make the travel day into something more.

If you want to get closer to Skye before stopping, Eileen Donan Castle sits at the convergence of three sea lochs and is arguably one of Scotland’s most photographed castles. We didn’t go inside but it’s a beautiful stop even just to stretch the legs (there’s public toilets in a car park a minute’s drive further), and my dad had been many years before so told us the interesting story behind the restoration. Personally, I would suggest making the most of the kid-oriented attractions like Farm Ness before you find yourself away from everything on Skye.

Driving from Inverness to Skye

We actually stopped for lunch at the café at An Talla, which is close to Inverness and at the northern tip of Loch Ness; next door is the Jacobite loch cruises which offer another option to break up the journey.

You definitely need a car on Skye as there’s limited regular public transport and the island is spread out, so don’t even consider it without one. We hired ours through National at Inverness airport via Expedia and they were excellent. We got a courtesy call the day before we arrived to confirm everything, which was a first in all our years of hiring cars around the world. The one hiccup was that the seven-seater we’d booked wasn’t available on the day, so we made do with a large five-seater. Worth ringing to confirm if you’re travelling as a bigger group and have a lot of kit.

And what a drive it is. The roads through the Highlands are wide, quiet, and dramatic.

We travelled the week before Easter and the roads were pretty much traffic-free (although on the way back they were notably busier). I suspect that changes dramatically once the school holidays kick in.

One small note for parents: the roads around Skye are winding, so if anyone in the car is prone to motion sickness it’s worth coming prepared.

Where we stayed on Skye with kids

We rented this Airbnb right on Loch Portree, which flows out into the open sea, and it was truly stunning. We arrived to a big welcome hamper, binoculars by the window (more on those later), and views that made the trip before we’d even unpacked.

It was a 10-15 minute walk into Portree, which was a nice distance for a morning coffee. At just over £1100 for 4 nights we felt it was reasonable for the quality of the 3-bed accommodation and the superb location. There’s a good range of cottages and self-catering options across the island – browse options on Booking.com here.

We rated visiting before the hoards of tourists, although I’d suggest after the Easter holidays and before the May bank holiday is probably the perfect time.

The weather on Skye

Let’s be clear, Skye is an island of all weathers. On most days we had sun, rain, hail, and dramatic cloud all within the space of an hour. You need to come prepared and you need to be flexible. Some of our planned walks didn’t happen because the conditions just weren’t right for a 15-month-old, but none of us minded.

Our easy-to-replicate family-friendly Skye itinerary

Day 1: Drive to Portree and seal spotting

After the flight and the drive to Portree, our first evening was deliberately low-key. We settled into the Airbnb, explored the loch views, and let R decompress. At high tide that evening, we made use of the binoculars the Airbnb provided and did a spot of seal watching (and it was successful!).

Portree has a good Co-op in the centre and a large one you can drive to in five minutes, which is great if you’re self-catering.

Day 2: Portree, a play shed, and seal spotting

In the morning we walked from the Airbnb around The Lump (the hill on the edge of Portree) and into the harbour. It’s a pretty approach to the town, and nicer than the main road walk. We stopped for coffee at Birch, a nice (but small) spot rated in the world’s top 100 coffee shops.

Portree itself is worth a mention for managing expectations. I’d half-imagined a Cornwall-on-sea kind of vibe – lots of independent shops, cafes spilling onto the street, that kind of thing. It’s not quite that. There aren’t that many places to eat or shop, and out of peak season quite a few things aren’t open. That said, it does feel authentic in a way that I appreciated.

With limited lunch options open in the town we drove to Café Cuil, which I’d thoroughly recommend. There was live music, the food was delicious, and it had a really warm atmosphere. The cafe started in Hackney, London from a chef drawing on her Skye roots, before she returned to the island in 2020 and set up this wonderful restaurant.

In the afternoon, Jack and my dad headed to Talisker Distillery for a tour (book ahead during busier times as it’s popular), while I took R to something that ended up being one of my favourite parts of the trip.

The Play Shed Skye is a toddler play café run by Claire, a local mum, out of a shipping container / small shed setup on the last Sunday of every month. It sounds wonderfully homespun and it absolutely is, but it’s also really well set up, with a proper little café feel inside.

I only stumbled across it because the weather was properly grim (strong winds, no chance of a walk) and I needed something for R to do near Talisker (and the play park next to it didn’t look that appetising in the rain).

The Play Shed was a lovely way to hear about life on the island, and R had a brilliant time. Claire has plans to run it more regularly alongside her glamping business, so check out her Instagram.

After Talisker, we all regrouped at Caora Dhubh for coffee, another good spot with great coffee. On the way back we passed through Sligachan, which is worth a quick pause thanks to its beautiful old stone bridge that’s very photogenic, Highland cattle grazing nearby in true Skye style.

Day 3: Fairy Glen, the Quiraing, and a road trip around northern Skye

A morning walk back into Portree (a Monday this time, so more of the shops were open) and coffee/sweet treats at Relish.

After lunch at our Airbnb we set off on a road trip around the northern tip of Skye, starting with the magical Fairy Glen. This small, otherworldly valley of strange conical hills and rocky formations feels completely unlike anywhere else. R was in the backpack carrier and it was a comfortable walk (approx an hour at a relatively relaxed pace), and we could have spent longer there had the weather been better. Parking was £3 for four hours and the car park was quite small (and no toilet facilities), so I can imagine it gets very busy in peak summer. The road up to Fairy Glen is quite potholed, so take it slowly.

From there we drove up over the top past the Quiraing, and the mountain landscape on this stretch is unique, almost alien in places. We didn’t stop to do the hike (the weather wasn’t great and R had already done Fairy Glen in the carrier), but if you’re there in better conditions and have older kids, or are travelling without little ones, it’s one for the list. The car park looked substantial, so if you’re planning to tackle the hikes more seriously, Family Can Travel have a brilliant guide to Skye with kids. They visited in better weather and with older children, so their honest take on the kid-friendliness of each trail is really useful.

We then stopped briefly on the drive back at An Corran beach to look for dinosaur prints. It was high tide so we couldn’t see them, but it’s an easy stop and the sign tells you all about what’s been found there. Again the car park is very small, so in summer and during low tide (when the footprints are visible) it could get tight.

Next on the drive was Kilt Rock, a dramatic sea cliff with a waterfall that drops straight into the sea. It’s a quick and easy stop with a car park right there – less manageable when your toddler is finally asleep, like ours was!

On the final part of the drive back to Portree we passed the Old Man of Storr car park, which is big and with a large toilet block. A nice hike that can be as short or as long as you want.

One place we’d have loved to stop but couldn’t: Untethered, a coffee and treats hut where you can also greet Highland cows. It’s only open from Easter, so we narrowly missed it, but it looked like it could have been fun.

Day 4: Fairy Pools, the Oyster Shed, and a final road trip

We gave ourselves a lazy morning on the last full day before heading out for a final exploration. Lunch was at the Oyster Shed, which is a small, no-frills setup that absolutely delivers on the food.

We had grilled prawns in garlic butter, mackerel, a platter of squid, and some oysters. The seafood is fresh and it felt like a bit of an institution. One practical note for parents: there are no toilets on site, so factor that in if you’re travelling with little ones.

From there we headed to the Fairy Pools, which was one of the walks we’d been most looking forward to. It didn’t disappoint, though it did surprise us slightly. We’d assumed from the photos that there was one dramatic waterfall at the end of the trail, but it turns out the iconic shots are a zoomed-in version of a fairly modest one. What the Fairy Pools actually are is a series of pools and waterfalls strung along a walk that gradually climbs higher and higher, each one beautiful in its own right. Parking is £8 and there are toilets at the car park.

It’s a comfortable walk with a lot of uphill (but not too steep) and the scenery is genuinely stunning. There are sections where people swim, though I’ll be honest – given that most of the pools lead directly into a waterfall, I’d approach that with some caution. In peak summer I imagine the pools glisten in a way that makes the whole thing even more spectacular, though I suspect the car park tells a different story in August.

We finished the trip with fish and chips from The Chippy in Portree (it hadn’t been open on previous evenings so we were glad to finally catch it). Their chips are apparently cooked in beef fat so not appropriate for strict vegetarians/vegans, though I can’t say I noticed a taste difference.

Where to eat and drink with a toddler: our picks

Skye is not overflowing with family-friendly café options, especially before Easter when a lot are still shut on some or all days, so it’s worth planning ahead. Here’s what worked for us:

• The Lean To (near Broadford) – worth adding to your coffee stop list when you’re south of the island
• Birch (Portree) – nice coffee, relaxed vibe but small inside
• Relish (Portree) – good coffee and sweet treats with larger upstairs seating area
• Café Cuil (Carbost) – highly recommend the live music, delicious food, and warm atmosphere
• Caora Dhubh (Carbost) – lovely for coffee after whiskey tasting
• The Oyster Shed (Carbost) – brilliant for a fresh seafood lunch. No toilets on site so plan ahead
• The Chippy (Portree) – fish and chips cooked in beef fat. Not open every night out of season, so check before making plans around it
• Pizza in the Skye (Portree) – excellent wood-fired pizzas (and the owner even discounted ours because the dough wasn’t perfect that day – what high standards!)
• Untethered (near Portree) – opens at Easter and sounds wonderful for little ones who like animals. Highland cows plus coffee is a solid combination!

What to do in bad weather with a toddler on Skye

This is worth thinking about before you go. Skye’s main attractions are outdoor walks and landscapes. When the weather is wild (and it will be, at some point) your options narrow quickly. Here’s what worked for us:

• Head to Portree. It’s the main town and has the most going on, so visit a cafe, and have a wander around the harbour and shops.
• Look for The Play Shed Skye. If your visit coincides with the last Sunday of the month, this is a gem. Keep an eye on Claire’s Instagram for when she expands her schedule.
• Embrace the zen. We chose our Airbnb partly for the loch views and it paid off. Seal watching with binoculars and an unmissable view from every room made lazy afternoons inside enjoyable. If your kids are old enough, take puzzles – or stop at Smyths toy store in Inverness if you can’t fit things into your suitcase.
• Drive the scenic routes. The Quiraing loop and the road to Fairy Glen are beautiful even from the car. You don’t have to hike everything to feel the drama of the landscape.
• Aros Centre cinema, Portree is a proper cinema right in town, ideal if you need a sit-down afternoon out of the rain. Our little one was a bit young at 15 months to make the most of this.
• The Fingal Centre, Portree offers swimming, climbing, and racquet sports.

Other things worth doing with kids on Skye

We didn’t get to everything, so here are a few other things for your to do list:

• Neist Point lighthouse – the most westerly point on Skye, with dramatic cliffs and a flat grassy area at the top that’s great for little ones. The path down can be steep so a carrier is recommended, but the views are extraordinary.
• Dunvegan Castle seal boat trips – short boat trips from the castle grounds to see the local seal colony.
• Stardust boat trips (Portree) – wildlife spotting from the water: sea eagles, seals, and sometimes dolphins.
• Coral Beach, Dunvegan – an unusual white beach made from fossilised algae.
• Staffin Dinosaur Museum – a natural pairing with An Corran beach if you time the tide right for the footprints.
• Bright Water Visitor Centre, Kyleakin – an otter-focused wildlife centre near the Skye bridge, with interactive sessions. Good for a rainy hour.

Is Skye worth it with a baby or toddler?

Yes, but go in with the right expectations.

Skye is not a destination where you’ll spend your days wandering pretty market towns or ticking off cute toddler cafes. It’s dramatic, remote, and weather-dependent. If you’re flexible, well-equipped for all conditions, and happy to let the landscape be the main event, it’s a brilliant choice even with very small children.

R was 15 months and in our fabulous Little Life carrier for most of the outdoor bits, which worked well (but buy the rain shield!). I’d think carefully about what you do with a walker who’s too old for a carrier and too young for a full hike – the terrain can be quite rugged. But as a backdrop for a multigenerational family trip, with other worldly landscapes and grandparents who can hold the baby while you drink your coffee, Skye is a place like no other.

Allie, Jack & R x

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